02.04.09 Alcuéscar

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Hullo, I`m Cabs. Actually I`m really called Cabra which, being translated from the Spanish, means goat. I can’t honestly say I am very happy about being called a goat considering that I am a decent self respecting dog but that’s life for you. But I am used to it now and you know, I’ve come to like it. All my new pals on this strange adventure we are embarked on thought it would be a good idea if we had our own say about it. It seems all the two legged people have a chance to talk about what they wanted on this blog thingie and so we wanted our turn. So, let’s hear it for the dogs: that’s what we say.
First, a bit about me. I’ll keep it short. I grew up on a goat farm, hence my silly name I suppose. It was a tough life. I had a rope, dried bread and water when it rained which it does not always do in Andalucia. The two legged person who ran the joint lacked the finer graces and we all had a pretty tough time. But the goats were great and when things were really bad they made sure I had cheese and fresh milk to eat. Goats and me, we get on fine and I would go to war for them if I had to. After four years of this the wretched two legged person fell over dead drunk one night before he had fixed the chain. I was off in one bound I was free!
I spent the next month in the bush (as the Australian two legged people on this jaunt would call it) which was not easy or funny. But I managed to find an agreeable two legged one who introduced me to a nice chap who called Jorrian who really helped me. After a good meal and a rest the next thing I knew this lovely two legged person called Chrissie showed up. Now, I’m not stupid and so, liking the look of her, I put on a proper show. I bounced, turned in circles, wagged what the wretched two legged person on the goat farm had left of my tail, smiled like crazy and said ‘Sausages!’ It never fails. She melted before me and I adopted her on the spot.
Two legged ones always think they are in control but what do they really know? So immediately I was transported to a new life. Comfy sofas, loads of grub, great walks, new pals and lots of love and laughter. Brilliant. I’d say ‘Sausages’ any number of times to realise this. I also met my best mate, Dolores. She was also a rescue dog, so she told me, and she was a scream. Sadly she died last year and this blog thingie is really for her too.
Chrissie introduced me to her man, Mike. He is soft as a brush and I adopted him too. One funny thing: they insisted I called them Mum and Dad. Dogs seldom know their dads although they love their mums so this was a bit rum but it takes all sorts and I didn’t mind. In fact it seems quite normal now. And I can’t help loving them.
So, all was going swimmingly. And now this extraordinary adventure. We are walking all day every day with loads of great fellows and some pretty decent two legged ones through some marvellous smells and fields full of pigs. I love pigs. I can run faster than they can and I love winding them up. (No, that’s a joke, really).
Dad is with me and I like that. The one they call Patrick who Dido looks after is with us too. Dear Dido, she is a dizzy girl and I love her dearly but she is a bit old for all that chasing sticks business. There are lots of other upright ones too. There is a tall noisy two legged woman who calls me Cabralita who’ s kind to me and looks after us and we think she’s pretty decent too.
But what’s this all about?
Well, Uno, who despite appearances is a bit of an intellectual, says we are all pilgrims. I really don’t get this too well but he says it means we are the top dogs, if you’ll excuse the rather dreadful pun. That’s fine by me because we can have a great time and get away with it if you see what I mean. In fact Uno says we are going to see DOG who we are all taught made the world and all four legged things in it after which we all had a big party. The two legged ones who came later changed DOG to GOD which was hardly imaginative and claimed him as their own invention. We don’t really think that was very clever but they do and it’s no use arguing.
So, are we having a god time? I’ve talked to all the guys about this and I can honestly say that YES we are. I mean, every day we are somewhere new and walking all day. There are loads of new scents, lots of pigs, marvelous woods and fields and wonderful new scents to follow up. Being of course a bit privileged as a ‘private dog’ having made that difficult graduation from rescue dog status which the two legged ones talk so much about I am off the lead a lot and can run free. What a blast that is! We dogs are doing well. Some of the two legged ones are struggling. But what do they expect on their two legs? It must be a nightmare for them. And they seem to have no sense of smell either. Whose idea was that? Their ‘God’s’ I suppose. Anyway we are fine and having a ball.
In the evenings we are all in the trailer and you should hear the stories. We have such a laugh. Rompe has the best stories by far. He’s only a small dog (nothing wrong with that I hasten to add) but, boy, has he lived.
Rambo is a bit shocked now that he’s adopted Jacquie and thinks he should object but we tell him where him to go. I told the guys about the two legged farmer and his peculiar relationship with his goats but I have to say that was pretty tame stuff compared to the others. Still the chap running this blog thingie says I don’t have time to tell these stories now so I’ll save them up for later. But we have some good japes. Alfie likes to pull two legged David into every stream we have to cross. Moro pulls Emel across every obstacle at full speed and in the evenings we all like to lead the noisy one a right dance as she orders us about. What a giggle.
Today was a lovely day. The two legged ones were rhapsodizing about flowers and country side but we were fixed on marvelous smells and the scent of hares and pigs and all sorts. Don’t tell me we did not get the best of it! There was a bit of confusion tonight. Uno’s two legged person called Stuart who Uno had grown to like a lot suddenly left us. We are not sure why but he was noisy too sometimes and he seemed to have a bit of a row with the tall noisy woman. We dogs at least know how to settle these things but they seem to find it harder. Poor Uno is very sad tonight but we shall look after him and make sure he is OK. Also tonight I am allowed to stay with Dad which is good because he misses me when I am not there. That’ll be nice for him and, as I say, I love him dearly really although his snoring is a pretty grim.
So, what’s next? It seems in addition to seeing DOG we are going to meet this chap called Santiago in a place called Compostella. I have no idea who he is but if he can get Dad and all these other two legged people to walk all day, every day just to meet him he gets my vote. When I meet him I shall give him lots of bounces, smiles and ‘sausages’. Indeed, I shall put on the full ‘dog and pony show’ as the two legged ones rather crudely call it. DOG knows what they mean by that. Who have you ever met who liked to do a show with a pony? But they are funny creatures and you have to humour them to keep them on side.
That’s about it from me. I think Moro is due to write the next blog thingie from us. I’m not sure that is a good choice by the two legged ones. Don’t get me wrong. Moro is a great fellow and in a tight spot you could not want a better chap at your side. But he’s a dog of few words if you see what I mean and is not the brightest member of the team. I think the two legged ones will get a lot of chewed pencils and not much blog for all his efforts. Bless him.
That’s it from Cabs. Off to bed with Dad now in the best sense of course and looking forward to a 28 kilometer jaunt tomorrow.

Doodle pip,
Cabs.

Ursulas impressions

I had set myself the goal of walking  the El Camino project for one week. I am not a passionate hiker and do not enjoy to give up my creature comforts and are surprised that the lack of it was my least concern during the journey.

The experience of the beauty of the county side, taken in walking speed, slowed my life right down, made it more intense, gave me a feeling of closeness with nature.
More pressing issues like ‘when is the next break’ became my priority!
I had many moving and special experiences due to the varieties of personalities in our group. Wonderful relationships were forming, drawing us into each others lives for a while.

One of these beautiful moments.
We just had finished the Paella (Kieron not!!!) It was a beautiful starry night, out in the Campo.
Kieron was pionting out the position of the Plough in the Northern Sky to Marion and me. He suddenly announced ‘Marion I love you’! I felt very privileged and happy to witness this beautiful moment.

I also had the chance to see the back up organization of this adventure in action, amazing, it takes Johanna all day!
Dietmar is for ever trying to find supermarkets! He has produced wonderful meals in his van. I cannot remember when I last had an appetite like a horse for a whole week, and ate like one. My dog Chetta felt the same, she even put on some weight and had a wonderful time with her friends.

Hopefully, through the help of our German Boys we will attract more interest into ADANA’s work and will be able to raise some more desperately needed money.
I also hope the El Camino Projet will be a spring board into the young men professional carriers.

I’ll follow you through the means of the Blog. Would love to keep in contact with you guys.
I bet, I do not need to tell you that I had the longest bath ever, when I got home, and it never run out of hot water!!!!! Wonderfull.

Lots of love to All of you. My hand is a lot better, thank you Marion.
Uschi

02.04.09 - Alcuéscar - Carmina’s comment

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28 and 29 MARCH

CALZADILLA TO ZAFRA AND ZAFRA TO VILLAFRANCA

Distances 22.2 and 20.5

We walked down to the village from our nice secluded albergue and met the mayor in the plaza  where we had photos taken along with the local Zafra animal protection society who had sent three representatives to join us for our walk into Zafra. Antonio Marta and Miguel Angel with 6 of their dogs. The walk was uneventful quite pretty and we had lunch by a railway bridge before entering Zafra where quite a reception was awaiting us. TV cameras and press and the Mayor of Zafra and we were greeted at the annual farmers exhibition and fair of local products. Our albergue massive but lacking hot water was further up the recinto ferial and there was a good place for the doggy camp.  We said goodbye to Maria Santa nero and Uschi and Chetta and met our new volunteers Gehard and Erika from Austria and Pat and Annie and Elena from Barcelona .

29 March

A rather chaotic but enjoyable supper competing with a wedding feast follwed by a quiet night and then an early start due to clock changes. We took in a short tour of Zafra before resuming the camino. We passed the rather elegant village of Santos de Maimona  before entering agricultural land with vines and olive trees. Silvia was suffering again and a lift was organised. The friends of the camino based in Villafranca met us onthe way in and provided us with nice maps and then the police escorted us in not before a stray dog ensconced itself in the car and refused to leave! Johanna met us to walk through Villafranca where the dog camp was at the far end and our Casa was nearby. A bit of a tight squeeze as the house was designed for 9 people and we were 15!! I slept in the same room as Gerhard erika and Annie a bit of a shock for them on their first day. Johanna had found a splendid restaurant where 10 of us ate and the others found other places around town.

26.03 - 27.03.09 by Kieran

Posted by Kieran

Well here we are in Calzadilla de los Barros and well into the Badajoz province of Extremadura. Yesterday we left Andalucia and crossed the border at Real de la Jara - an evocative crossing marked by two adjoining fortresses separated by several centuries of antiquity but a only a few hundred meters in geography.  The route was astonishing - particularly for those of us from the southern hemisphere who were escaping the last few days of an antipodean summer. To be just as quickly immersed in the late spring of southern Spain was a tonic that evaporated any thoughts of aching limbs.

Shortly after we arrived in Extremadura we were welcomed by several members of the animal rescue agencies of Extremadura and a film crew from the local TV station. The lunch that followed confirmed the necessity for siesta. Indeed a few of the platoon, as evidenced by some of the photos, acculturated to this notion within moments of the abundant and generous feed!  The final 4 km to Monasterio was just that little bit more difficult because of our full stomachs but we could hardlly complain!!

We arrived in Monasterio apparently in time for the early evening news on local TV - what people might have thought of an eclectic mob of walkers with an equally assorted band of dogs from Estepona is, perhaps, the subject of another blog! At the end of the day we are a  bunch of people who, after two weeks on the road for some and one for others, are beginning to bond. The idiosyncrasies of the walkers comprising individuals from all hemispheres are reflected by the idiosyncrasies of the animals in our care. We all have different backgrounds and different reasons for being here. We all share common interests in walking, animals, nature, art, history, jokes and totally enjoying being alive and active. The conversations, en route, can be quite esoteric informed as they are by the topography and the interests of the walkers. The Peninsular Wars one minute, baroque music another, ancient migrations another and some of the other long distance walks accomplished by members of the walking team. It all goes down to prove the veracity of Yeats’ expression - ‘there are no strangers here - only friends you have yet to meet’.  So while we are all bonded by ADANA and its principles there are, not unexpectedly, many agendas. Vive la difference!

And today’s walk was the best so far - despite the fact that some of us added a further 5 kilometers to bring us to a total of 35 for the day. We started at approximatelly 750 meters and had a slow descent of 150 meeters over the following miles. Starting in the encina meadows we found ourselves in territory that seemed to be miles and centuries away from the awful realities of the moment. The wild spring flowers ´lavender, broom, gorse, forgetmenots and native orchids were like a ribbon on the horizon. And for the history buffs we found ourselves in territorry previously inhabited by the likes of Pizzaro and other members of the Extrameduran conqusitadors who left this place in the 16th century to find their El Dorado -  we have found our El Dorado in their own homesteads

No doubt there will be many private blogs that will offer a  more descriptive acount of the week to date. Well done to all. I have certainly made some new friends.

Thank you to our friends from FEPAEX

Thank you members of FEPAEX
Published by Johanna on 27 March 2009

At last we reached Extremadura!  I am very excited about it, not only because of the beauty of the scenery, but mostly, and most importantly, because of its people, hospitality and warmth.

Like everywhere else around the world there are all types, without a doubt, there are still many people who mistreat and abandon animals; but there are also the others, the ones that are concerned and fight for things to change and they are the ones that give us the strength to carry on.  They are the ones who have received us with cheers and applause!  We are so lucky and what a treat for a pilgrim to find such an impressive culinary banquet in the middle of the countryside!

The Mayor of Monesterio has also come to greet us as well as Enrique from the Tourist Office.  The journalists from the Hoy Newspaper and from the Extremadura Channel have also offered their support.  Thanks to them, people greet us on the street and know who we are and why we are walking.

With strength and high spirits we continue through Extremadura and we invite everyone to come join us and fight against animal cruelty and abandonment.

Maria Santas point of view

Maria Santa’s Experience
Published by Pilger on 27 March 2009

My name is Maria Santa and I am walking with my dog Nero, a Spanish mastiff.   We are accompanying ADANA during the second week from Sevilla to Zafra, on their way to Santiago and on behalf of the Andaluz Association Against Cruelty to Animals (Colectivo Andaluz Contra el Maltrato Animal or CACHA) and thus support this wonderful campaign to raise awareness against indiscriminate and irrational abandonment of pets.

It has been a wonderful experience to walk alongside my fellow walkers, the two-legged ones as well as the four-legged ones, and at the same time meet all kinds of pilgrims who have also enriched this journey.

In the “El Camino” everything seems magically possible.  People are kind and the mood is always positive.

Everyone’s heart is open and joy outweighs exhaustion.  When you are knackered and you feel you can’t go on, you continue and realize it was worth all the effort.

For me, it has meant a magnificent contribution toward my spiritual growth because I realize that although I cannot change the world, I can look at it through a less painful perspective which allows me to be happier, along with the people who help me along the way….

And for this vital reason, had I been able to, I would have accompanied ALL the entire way to Santiago.

THANK YOU FELLOW WALKERS

I carry you in my heart and I love you.

Good Journey

María Santa

25.03.09 El Real de la Jara

Posted by David
We spent the night in a very comfortable bunk bed at the Albergue in Almaden De La Plata. I slept well with no leg pains and heard no snoring.
I awoke to discover that I had missed the drama of the day – Mike in the lower bunk beside me had a large plaster above his left eye, Apparently he had sat up smartly during the night and had hit his forehead on the top bunk. Thankfully I slept through all this.
After ablutions with hot water I went for breakfast downstairs, prepared in the Albergue by Dietmar and in that my feet were now aching I put on my oldest and most comfortable boots for the day´s walk.
A short stroll down one street led us on to the campo and then an almost softish track leading us to the Parque Natural Sierra Norte. At this point it is forested with mainly holme oak and lush Spring grass in all directions. Here we found herds of cows, sheep, black pigs and goats. Plenty to keep the dogs excited. The trees gave us shade in some places as it was another hot sunny day.
The path undulated and was well marked. The kms flew by as I talked to Mike about car rallying and to Stuart about his long distance walking. We passed and re-passed our fellow pilgrims. Narciso with his donkey, our Austrian friend and the lone French lady.
After a short uphill climb we saw El Real De La Jara between our feet below the hill. A short walk down led us to a lunch already prepared and then afterwards to the Albergue where we met up with our fellow pilgrims again. The site Johanna has arranged with the Ayuntamiento here is in a wonderful green field so that the dogs are able to run free for the evening.
Being a very short walk today we had the afternoon to ourselves.
During this time Jacqui finally made arrangements for the adoption of the dog Rambo, much to the great delight of everyone here. Rambo has been training for the last 2 months with Jacqui and this pair along with the other four Costa Del Sol walkers are the only ones yet to have a rest day from walking.
Later we walked up to the Castillo, recently restored, giving us wonderful views over the Sierra Morena, which we will be crossing in the next few days.
Waiting now for the restaurant to open at 8.00pm and looking forward to more lovely food.

24.03.09 Castilblanco de los arroyos - Almaden de la plata


Distance covered about 30 kilometers
time … about 8 hours
Weather … cloudy and cool with a little rain

Reported by Karen

I am not sure whether or not yesterday’s entry included information about Castilblanco de los Arroyos which I found lovely – another world.  After navigating a running of the goats outside of town –photos to follow- we arrived with plenty of time to wander the steep cobbled streets which did not come alive until about 6 PM when the residents reappeared after their siesta.  In the afternoon only the storks nesting in the steeple of the church were busy tending to over a dozen huge nests.   It was a magnificent sight to watch these birds in flight bringing more nesting material to their already bursting homes.

In Castilblanco we all slept in the bunk room of our first official pilgrim’s alberge.  There we met Narciso, Spanish pilgrim who is travelling to Santiago with his burro Moreno and his little dog Grio.  He has spent years making various pilgrimages and he shared with us photos of his burro being blessed by the Pope when he completed a one hundred day trek from Cadiz to Rome a few years ago.  Moreno, lodged in a little field next to the alberge, did some atmospheric braying during the night which was matched by the splendid snoring of one or more of us.  For the first time in the nine days we’ve been together my ear plugs failed to muffle the sounds and I did not sleep well.  I went out early in the morning and saw the burro all saddled up for the journey with specially decorated regalia - photos to follow.  I then met up with Narciso in the café across the street from the hostel.  I drank several cups of delicious café con leche.  His breakfast included a glass of cognac for the road.  He was off before dawn, walking with the burro carrying his belongings.  I think I will try the cognac trick one of these mornings.

The Adana group’s walk began just after nine AM this morning and this is the first day of our 40 days and 40 nights in the wilderness as we continue our pilgrimage to Santiago de Compòstela.  Yes!  We have completed nine of our forty-nine days.  I am finding my rhythm, my feet have adjusted, my blisters have come and thankfully appear to be gone thanks to one of the more marvelous byproducts of the world’s dependence on fossil fuels… 100% pure petroleum jelly.

This was the first cloudy day of our camino and I was thankful for the cool temperatures and the muted light after many gorgeous but very sunny days.  My west facing arm is beginning to look like a burnt offering as it has been bearing the brunt of the late afternoon sun on our ever northward journey.

We started with 16 kilometers on a quiet, winding and gradually climbing road through dehesa – land planted with cork oaks and interplanted with wheat or other cereal crops.  The wheat is harvested just before the acorns fall from the oaks, the pigs are let into the fields to eat the acorns, fatten and fertilize the soil.  Some years the land between the trees is left to pasture cows or sheep or goats.

I walked ahead with MY dog, the lovely Perrie – I call her la Infanta de España, the crown princess of Spain, because of her regal bearing, so I missed some excitement on the road including some of our dogs chasing sheep, etc.   We all met to pick up our lunch before entering the Parque Forestal el Berrocal.   Intending to eat lunch in an hour, we decided to walk further, to a ruined farmhouse, to get out of the rain.   Let me put in a plug for my Exofficio trousers - they had been completely wet but dried in 5 minutes once the rain stopped and I was back on the trail.

We climbed up the steep Cerro del Calvario to great views over the day’s trails to the south and to the little town of Almaden de la Plata below us to the north.   We are at another alberge tonight.  Several of the dogs have received a hose down and shampoo so now I will do the same for myself.

23.03.09 Guillena – Castilblanco de los Arroyos

Last night we had a meeting to talk about things so far and make decisions for this week. After much robust, determined and even sometimes quite intelligent debate we came to a few conclusions which will affect the way we walk this week.  We decided to be a bit more organized about how we arrive at a destination: preferably in one group with a guide to show us where to go and how to get there. Most importantly we have agreed to start everyday at 9.00 a.m to give us more time in the evenings and to avoid hot weather.
So today we were all organized at 9.00 a.m to start…except for two of us who shall remain nameless. But they can be forgiven for, having just arrived from Australia, they are probably still operating on a different time zone.
In lovely weather ideal or walking we moved out of Guillena. As usual the dogs celebrated the fact by decorating the pavements of the pueblo with gleeful enthusiasm with their individual calling cards. And as usual their various handlers showed very variable degrees of enthusiasm about pooper scooping.
The first kilometer was along a main road heavily populated by heavy lorries. Patrick in his masterly chameleon manner metamorphosed into a traffic cop and succeeded in slowing even the Spanish equivalent of the English ‘white van man’. After leaving the road we had three delightful hours of walking through lovely rich country of rolling farmland and heavily wooded hills. The path was narrow, mysterious and full of turns. At each crest or corner a new vista would reveal itself. We passed a grove of splendid oranges for which, like generations of pilgrims before us we thanked the Lord and then helped ourselves. Today the dogs were well and happy. Only Nero needed a spell in the support vehicle. And we were mostly well too. Only Emel, whose invincible good humour and marvelous laugh does so much to cheer our spirits throughout the day had to have some running repairs from Andrea to her knee. Even Mike and Stuart were seen to be laughing at least once and were less curmudgeonly than usual. Poor Sylvia still has a bad knee and is not yet walking this week.
By lunchtime we had all but finished the day’s distance and Dietmar provided a delicious meal. Then on the dot of 2.00 p.m as planned we arrived in Castilblanco De Arroyos at the tourist office to meet the press and various civic grandees for a spot of PR activity. It all seemed to go well.
A good day was had by all, dogs and their handlers and spirits are high.
Oh yes, one other excitement. Stuart is due to become a Grandfather today for the first time. It seems he will have to get used to pooper scooping after all…

Mike